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São Mateus da Calheta
Shortly after Cinco Ribeiras the main road forks out and, while the inner road passes through the village of São Bartolemeu, the outer one continues to São Mateus da Calheta, and the two roads converge again just before Angra. São Bartolemeu has, apart from its obligatory church and Holy Ghost chapel, nothing much to retain a tourist. São Mateus da Calheta on the contrary is a lively old fishing village where the majority of its inhabitants still live on fishing and cattle raising. Dominating the pretty village, with its neat houses stretching on a headland, gently sloping down towards the coast, the present parish church was consecrated in the beginning of the 20th century and features the proud number of seven altars as well as 17th-century figures from Saint Matthew and the Virgin Mary. This small town also boasts two Holy Ghost chapels, the Império do Cantinho de São Mateus and the Império do Terreiro, as well as many small chapels within and in the surroundings of the village, which are proof of the exceptional religiousness of the islanders. Only the walls remain of the old parish church dating from the 16th century, idyllically located between the bays of Terreiro and Negrito. For a long time, this was the first church that ships returning from India on their way to Angra saw.
Since the early 16th century, Terceira’s south coast near Angra had been the target of pirate raids, which caused the erection of several forts in the area, many of which have not survived the various earthquakes and sea storms and of some only remains are left. One of those is the Forte Grande de São Mateus, erected in 1581 for the protection of São Mateus harbour, for a long time one of the island’s most important fishing harbours, of which only some wall relics can be seen. Another one, the Forte do Negrito, also dating from 1581, is located in the western part of the village, stretching along the coast, near Porto Negrito, another small fishing port. The remains of the fort, which served its function until the end of the 19th century, are now used by the Museum of Angra do Heroísmo as an exhibition venue, open between May and September, displaying – besides temporary expositions – information related to the island’s whaling history. Since the prohibition of whale fishing, the old whaling factory, also located in the port area, has decayed and today nothing much reminds of the glorious whale fishing times in the 70s of the past century. In the meantime, the quay was transformed into an attractive bathing complex, with rocks forming a beautiful natural pool. This area boasts many excellent fish restaurants where the catch of the day can be savoured.
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